The gardening season isn't over once Autumn arrives; in fact Autumn is an excellent time for planting most trees. It's also important to do your Autumn tree care now to prepare them for winter. Autumn temperatures are generally cooler, stressing the trees less and allowing them a better chance to get their roots established. Also, trees that are planted in early Autumn tend to establish stronger roots which make them more able to withstand winter temperatures and allow them the opportunity to better move ahead once Spring arrives.

When selecting a tree or shrub from your local nursery, make sure it is healthy. Look for plants with few or no yellow leaves. Avoid plants that show signs of stress; they are less likely to transplant successfully. Some indications of plant stress include insect and disease damage, poor root development and leaf desiccation (drying of the leaves). And remember a tree or shrub from your local nursery is more likely to be conditioned to suit your local growing environment.

Trees and shrubs are available from nurseries in three forms: bare-root, balled and wrapped and container-grown. Each form has advantages and disadvantages, and all can be successfully transplanted if handled properly.

At this time of year some of the best planting results can come from:

Bare-Root Plants:

Bare-root plants are grown in plots, and then harvested. The soil is washed or shaken from their roots after digging. Nearly all are deciduous trees or shrubs that are dormant. Since these plants' roots are bare, it is critical to keep them moist by packing their roots in moist material, such as sawdust, or covering their roots with wet burlap. Store the plants in a cool location and plant as soon as possible, before the roots and buds start to grow.

1. Choose the right plant for the location, and obtain the best specimen available. A healthy specimen thrives if planted properly in the right location, but even the best planting procedures cannot overcome poor plant selection.
   
   
2. Use native soil with limited soil amendments. If you have selected the best plant for the location, then soil amendments such as compost are not necessary. If the soil is either gravel or very heavy, then amend the soil not more than 25 percent by volume. This provides a good environment for roots to grow into, yet is not drastically different from the surrounding native soil. If the backfill in a planting hole is too different from surrounding soil, then roots may not penetrate out of the planting hole, and the resulting root mass may be limited and insufficient to support long-term growth.
   
   
3. Dig a wide and shallow planting hole, and don't plant too deeply. Tree roots grow outward, more than downward. It is important to provide loose soil around the root ball for roots to expand into. For most woody plants, about 90 percent of the root mass will eventually develop in the top 500mm of soil. Dig a planting hole at least three times as wide as small root balls, or at least 30cm wider in all directions than large root balls. (A)
   

   While the planting hole can be dug as wide as you are willing to dig, it should not be dug any deeper than the root ball. If trees and shrubs are planted too deeply, or if they are placed on backfill that later settles and effectively "plants them" too deeply, then they are subject to two serious problems. First, roots require oxygen to function, and the oxygen level 7-10 cm below the surface is low. If roots cannot access oxygen, then they cannot grow, and the plant will decline and possibly die.

   Second, the juncture between the root and trunk of a woody plant should be planted at or even slightly above the ground level. If it is planted too deeply, then the plant is subject to decay and damage from girdling root development. (B)

   In a location with heavy soil, dig the planting hole 7-10 cm shallower than the depth of the root ball. Remember that you will cover the root zone with 5cm of mulch after planting.

   When you plant place the specimen into the hole on firm, native soil, and rotate as needed for best visual perspective. Remove the ball and burlap or container as described earlier. Prune off damaged roots and girdling roots, and redirect any roots growing around the circumference of the root ball so that they point outward.

   Backfill with either native soil or minimally amended soil to fill the hole halfway. Tamp firmly to remove air pockets, and water thoroughly to settle the soil. Fill the rest of the hole, tamp and water thoroughly. Most nursery-grown trees and shrubs do not require any pruning of branches at planting time, because they were pruned for form during nursery production. Many trees also do not require staking, unless they are sited in a windy location or in a heavy clay soil. If you do stake, be sure to remove the stakes and support lines one year after planting.

4. Care for the specimen for at least the first three seasons, to promote good establishment. Long-term maintenance will be less if you take special precautions during the first three years. Mulch around the base of the plant to prevent weed growth, preserve soil moisture, protect the bark of the trunk from lawn mowers/brush cutters and eliminate competition from grass. If possible, mulch with 5cm of organic matter, such as native wood mulch, at least as wide as the drip line (widest section of canopy) of the plant. Pull the mulch away from the base of the plant, since the addition of the mulch would be the same as planting too deeply. Watering and mulching at planting time is only the first step in a successful maintenance program. If the planting site does not receive at least 12.5mm (one half inch) of rainfall per week during the first few growing seasons, supplement with deep soak watering. Always water thoroughly, but water more frequently in hot weather and on sandy sites, and water less often in cool weather and on heavy clay sites. Fertilize for the first time in spring of the year after planting. Prune for form during the second or third year.
   
   
5. Identify problems and resolve them before they become serious. Proper plant selection, good planting procedures and attentive early care are the keys to healthy plantings. Monitor your plants and get to know what they look like when they are healthy and vigorous. If you notice any changes that suggest a problem, identify the problem, and resolve it before it becomes serious. Seek professional assistance if needed. Spot treating a problem early can reduce maintenance labor and pesticide use, and can prevent major damage.